Of course, you can always write zeros to the drive with numerous freeware programs as well, but we don't have the nuclear launch codes on our computer, so we've been happy going this route for many years. By deleting all of the partitions, then letting windows recreate what's needed, there's a better chance of overwriting free space on our drive making data unrecoverable. We also like to do this for security reasons. We're old school, and we prefer to select all partitions on our primary (C) drive and delete them all, then allow Windows to create whatever partitions are needed before installing Windows.
You can get to Disk Management by right-clicking on My Computer or the Computer icon in Windows 7 and clicking.
Also, when you format the device, you should go to Disk Management and then right-click on the device there and choose Format.
To be honest, partitioning and formatting a hard drive nowadays is required only if you want to partition off space for storage. However, you should connect the device to another computer, copy off all the data and then perform a format. When you install Windows, all you need to do is select the drive and Windows will partition off the space it needs for system files as Windows itself. Chaces are you got a good enough match for reading, but long term use may produce data corruption unless you are 100% sure you got an exact drive board for your drive.TIP: Hard to fix Windows Problems? Repair/Restore Missing Windows OS Files Damaged by Malware with a few clicks If you need a drive controller, and replacing it allows the drive to read - back up the drive immediately. Being a 1TB, it hopefully won’t be that hard, and it’s not quite as critical to get an exact USB interface board match as it is to get a drive controller exact match for data retrieval. Remember, you need to get the same part number and revision of the board. If it’s still not readable, then you’re likely looking at the drive controller board. If it’s only readable in that it no longer gives errors when trying to read, but is not readable as a windows drive, then you’re looking at the USB to SATA interface. If the drive IS readable in this state, great - problem solved. If the drive is readable, great - even if you cannot see the data, but can now at least read the sectors of the drive (DO NOT do ANY writing to the drive). This I suspect is because of some partnership with the data recovery houses which are a giant cash-cow.įirst - remove the drive from the USB to SATA interface and connect it directly to the computer with a SATA cable or eSATA/USB drive dock. They seem to believe that if their hardware fails, we are supposed to lose all our data and be happy about it rather than providing us the tools we need to repair the damage. Try to find a spare USB to SATA board on ebay - because WD won’t sell you one. Unfortunately, testing will be difficult without extra parts. It sounds like either your drive is failing, failed, corrupted, OR the USB to SATA interface may be damaged.
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